Creative food pairings in friendly community environs may be the way to introduce smaller, more obscure wineries to Hong Kong’s on-trade, argues Rebecca Lo.
Hong Kong is known as a test market for good reason. Its East meets West reputation means that global start-ups eyeing China — or Chinese entrepreneurs with global ambitions — both have a platform. Its role as a test market is most apparent with the wine industry; the city’s mature consumers, plethora of F&B outlets and thirst for what’s new and next pave the way for emerging or obscure wineries to reach discerning drinkers.
...Further west, Crushed Wine Bar is already packed by 5:30pm, co-founder Leigh-Ann Luckett presiding over the bar like a mother hen to ensure customers are poured exactly what they want to drink.
Originally from South Africa, Luckett fell in love with wine through Cape Town’s tasting rooms where she met local winemakers. She settled in Hong Kong, worked at Kedington Wines and Madison Auction, and eventually discovered her preference for the style of small wineries.
Crushed began as an online retailer during initial pandemic-induced closures, following with a bricks and mortar shop. In August 2023, Crushed relocated to a two-storey space and became Sai Ying Pun’s neighbourhood wine bar.
Luckett views her role as narrator and curator rather than sommelier; Crushed’s wine list followed suit, with quirky, highly personal labels such as Ltd. + Old Vine Pinot Gris. Comfort food steeped in nostalgia such as Brut’s mac and cheese with Roquefort or prawn cocktail anchor customers’ wine journeys.
“Our programme is by the glass and flights,” she said. “We intentionally do not put a region, grade or traditional tasting notes on our menu. By leaning into the whimsy and family aspects of wine, we remove misconceptions. Guests feel safer without the need to navigate unfamiliar words.”
Luckett sources wines from a vast network built throughout the years mainly from South Africa, Italy and the US. “We support fair practice and biodiversity,” she stated. “The trend lately is towards lighter wines such as orange or skin contact: huge in a culture dominated by red. Hong Kong people tend to be open to learning more about what they consume; we are grateful we can share our producers’ stories.”
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